The newest off-grid caravans look more like rolling homes than old-school campers. Big lithium batteries, roof-mounted solar, high-output inverters and induction cooktops are replacing gas bottles and generators in some premium builds.

One of the most talked-about Australian RVs displayed in July 2026 paired a 10.2kWh battery with 1,000W of rooftop solar, induction cooking and an electric fridge. It was a glimpse of where high-end touring is heading–but you do not need a six-figure caravan to cook a meal without LPG.

Portable induction cooktops and large power stations have made gas-free camping possible for far more travellers. The catch is that induction is efficient at making heat, but it still demands a lot of power in a short time. A setup that runs a fridge and lights happily may shut down the moment a 2,000W cooktop starts.

So, can you realistically camp without gas in Australia?

The short answer: Yes, if your battery, inverter, cabling and charging system are designed for high loads–and if your cooking habits suit the energy available. It is easiest on powered sites and in modern lithium setups. For long remote stays, poor solar weather or modest batteries, gas or another backup can still be the more dependable choice.

All-electric camping at a glance

Why gas-free camping is suddenly everywhere

Three changes have made electric cooking much more practical:

1. Lithium batteries provide more usable energy at lower weight than an equivalent traditional lead-acid bank.
2. Large pure sine wave inverters are increasingly common in caravans, canopies and portable power stations.
3. Portable induction cooktops are affordable and easy to trial without rebuilding a camp kitchen.

The wider caravan market is moving the same way. Large 48V systems, solar-heavy roofs and electric appliances are appearing in premium Australian RVs. For many buyers, the appeal is not merely new technology. Removing LPG can simplify refilling, eliminate an open flame at the cooktop and reduce heat and moisture from combustion inside a small van.

Induction also works when a fire ban rules out campfires, although you must still follow every applicable park closure, total fire ban condition and local direction. An electric appliance is not permission to camp or cook where authorities have closed an area.

How induction cooking actually works at camp

An induction cooktop creates a magnetic field that heats compatible cookware directly. Unlike a traditional electric hotplate, the cooking surface is not the main heat source. That makes induction responsive and efficient–but it does not make the appliance low wattage.

Most portable Australian induction cooktops use 240V AC. When you are off-grid, the energy path usually looks like this:

Battery -> inverter -> 240V outlet -> induction cooktop

The inverter converts battery DC into the AC power required by the appliance. Every part of that chain must cope with the load: battery cells, battery-management system, cables, fuses, isolators, inverter, outlets and connections.

This is why the question "How big is your battery?" is not enough. A battery may store plenty of energy but still have a discharge limit too low for the current demanded by the inverter.

How much battery does an induction cooktop really use?

There are two different numbers to understand:

• Power, measured in watts, tells you how hard the appliance is drawing right now.
• Energy, measured in watt-hours, tells you how much battery capacity it uses over time.

The basic calculation is:

Energy used (Wh) = appliance watts x hours used

Worked camping examples

Real battery use will be higher because the inverter is not 100% efficient and the cooktop may cycle power. Weather, cookware, cooking method and starting temperature also affect the result.

Suppose dinner uses 500Wh and the inverter operates at roughly 90% efficiency:

500Wh / 0.90 = about 556Wh drawn from the battery

At a nominal 12.8V, that is roughly:

556Wh / 12.8V = about 43Ah

That is one meal. Your fridge, lights, water pump, phones, fan and Starlink Mini setup may all be drawing from the same stored energy.

The number that catches people out: current draw

Energy capacity decides how long you can cook. Current capability decides whether the system can start and keep running at all.

A 2,000W inverter load supplied by a 12.8V battery can require well over 150A before losses are considered. A rough calculation at 90% inverter efficiency is:

2,000W / 12.8V / 0.90 = about 174A

That is a serious current. The battery-management system must allow it, and the inverter, cable size, fuse and connections must all be suitable. A weak connection that seems fine while running LED lights can become dangerously hot under an induction load.

Do not copy a cable size or fuse from a social media build. Cable length, installation method, voltage, expected load and protective devices all affect the correct design. Have fixed 240V work completed by a licensed electrician and use an appropriately qualified auto electrician or RV electrical specialist for the vehicle-side system.

Can a 100Ah lithium battery run induction?

Technically, some can. Practically, it depends on the battery.

A nominal 100Ah, 12.8V lithium battery stores about 1,280Wh before allowing for reserve, discharge limits and conversion losses. But storage capacity is only half the story. If its battery-management system permits 100A continuous discharge, it cannot directly support a 174A battery-side load without shutting down or being operated outside its rating.

Check all of the following:

Two batteries in parallel may provide more capacity and current capability, but only where the manufacturer permits that configuration and the system is correctly balanced and protected. Do not assume any two lithium batteries can simply be joined together.

For occasional cooking, a suitable 200Ah-class lithium system is a more realistic starting point than a basic single-battery setup, but there is no universal minimum. Some travellers need less because they cook quickly and recharge daily. Others need far more because they run air conditioning, coffee machines, hot-water appliances and computers as well.

What size inverter do you need?

Read the cooktop's input rating–not just the setting you intend to use.

A 2,000W cooktop needs an inverter whose continuous output can support the appliance with reasonable headroom. The inverter must also be compatible with sensitive electronics; a quality pure sine wave unit is the normal choice for this type of appliance.

Do not confuse surge or peak marketing figures with continuous output. An inverter advertised as "2,000W peak" may be unable to run a 2,000W cooktop continuously.

Also remember that other 240V appliances share the inverter. A cooktop and coffee machine running together can push an otherwise suitable system into overload.

A power-limited cooktop can help

Some induction units allow a genuine maximum-power limit, such as 800W, 1,200W or 1,500W. That can make them easier to match to a smaller inverter or a powered-site supply. However, some cheap units achieve low heat by cycling full power on and off. That reduces energy over time but may not reduce the instantaneous load seen by the inverter.

If power limiting matters, confirm how the actual model behaves rather than relying on the number shown on its control panel.

How much solar do you need for gas-free camping?

Solar-panel wattage does not determine whether an induction cooktop will start. The battery and inverter carry the immediate load. Solar determines how quickly you can replace the energy afterwards.

For example, if cooking consumes about 600Wh from the battery in a day, a 400W solar array will not automatically replace that in 90 minutes. Panel rating is measured under standard test conditions. Real output is reduced by clouds, shade, heat, panel angle, wiring and charging losses.

A large flat-mounted caravan array might perform well in clear northern Australian conditions and struggle through a wet southern winter. Design for the trips you actually take, not the best graph from a perfect summer day.

A resilient setup may combine:

Our guide to camping solar charge controllers explains the difference between PWM and MPPT charging, while the camping weather-planning guide can help you avoid designing every trip around perfect sunshine.

Induction versus gas for Australian camping

Induction wins on cleanliness, speed and convenience when the electrical system is already capable. Gas wins on energy density, simplicity and independence from battery state.

The smartest setup is not always ideological. Many touring families use induction whenever solar or mains power is plentiful and keep a compliant backup cooking option for prolonged bad weather or system failure.

What cookware works on induction?

Induction needs a magnetic base. Cast iron and many stainless-steel pans work; aluminium, glass and some stainless cookware do not unless they include an induction-compatible layer.

The quick test is a fridge magnet. If it sticks firmly to the flat base, the pan will often work, although you should still check the manufacturer's marking. The base also needs to match the cooktop's minimum diameter and sit flat.

Camping cookware should be stable on the small glass surface. An oversized cast-iron camp oven may be heavy enough to damage a portable cooktop or trap heat around it. Check the unit's weight limits, ventilation clearances and instructions.

Is induction safer than gas?

It removes several gas-related hazards: there is no open flame, no combustion exhaust at the cooktop and no LPG cylinder feeding that appliance. The surface also stops actively heating when compatible cookware is removed.

But induction introduces different risks:

"No flame" does not mean "no fire risk." Inspect leads and plugs, keep ventilation openings clear, avoid unstable surfaces and stop using any battery or power station that is swollen, damaged, unusually hot, leaking or producing an unusual odour. Follow the manufacturer's storage and charging instructions and check Product Safety Australia recalls for affected equipment.

Never undertake permanent 240V caravan wiring as a DIY project. State and territory rules apply, and licensed electrical work is not optional.

Portable power station or built-in battery system?

Portable power station

A large power station can be the easiest way to trial electric cooking. Battery, inverter, display, outlets and protection are integrated into one product.

Check:

The headline capacity is not fully available at the 240V outlet because conversion and reserve losses apply.

Built-in system

A properly designed built-in system can offer more capacity, faster alternator charging and cleaner integration. It is better suited to frequent touring and multiple heavy appliances, but installation cost and complexity rise quickly.

Choose the system only after listing every load and when it will run. Buying the largest inverter first can lead to an unbalanced build with inadequate battery, charging or cabling.

Five meals that suit an electric camp kitchen

Gas-free camping works best when the menu respects the battery.

1. Stir-fries: high heat but short cooking time.
2. Pasta with a one-pan sauce: use a lid and avoid boiling excessive water.
3. Eggs and wraps: quick breakfast with minimal preheating.
4. Pre-cooked curry or stew: reheat rather than simmering for hours.
5. Couscous bowls: boil a small amount of water, switch off and let it stand.

A pressure cooker, insulated pot or thermal cooker can reduce total heating time. An electric kettle may also be efficient for measured quantities of water, provided the inverter and battery support it.

Who should consider going gas-free?

All-electric camping makes the most sense for:

• travellers who already own a capable lithium and inverter setup
• caravan-park users with regular access to approved mains power
• campers who move often and recharge from the vehicle
• solar-rich touring where daily energy replacement is predictable
• people wanting to reduce combustion inside a van
• buyers planning a new premium caravan or canopy electrical system

It may be a poor fit for:

• small AGM battery systems
• long stationary camps during cloudy winter weather
• remote travellers with no backup cooking method
• anyone hoping a single small solar panel will run everything
• campers who mainly cook slowly for large groups
• people seeking the cheapest possible setup

A realistic three-level setup guide

These are use cases, not equipment specifications. Actual component sizing must follow the chosen appliance, battery and inverter ratings.

Gas-free camping checklist

Before buying:

Before each trip:

The verdict: should you ditch gas?

All-electric camping is no longer a futuristic showcase. A modest portable induction cooktop can be brilliant on a powered site, and a properly designed lithium system can make it practical well beyond the grid.

The mistake is treating the cooktop as the whole upgrade. It is the cheapest and simplest part. Battery discharge capability, inverter output, cabling, protection and daily charging decide whether the experience feels effortless or ends with a shutdown halfway through dinner.

If you already have plenty of battery and charging capacity, induction is one of the most satisfying appliances you can add. It is fast, clean and easy to control. If your power system is modest, keep gas for now or use induction only when connected to mains power.

You do not win at off-grid camping by removing a gas bottle. You win by building a system that still makes dinner after two cloudy days.

Frequently asked questions

Can you use an induction cooktop while camping?

Yes. On a powered site, use an approved supply and follow the site's rules. Off-grid, you need a battery, inverter and electrical system capable of the cooktop's maximum load.

Can a 100Ah lithium battery run a 2,000W induction cooktop?

Only some can, and often only for short periods. The battery-management system's continuous-discharge limit may be more important than the stored amp-hours. At full output, a 2,000W cooktop can require roughly 174A from a 12.8V battery after allowing for inverter losses.

What size inverter is needed for induction cooking?

Match the inverter's continuous output to the cooktop's maximum input with suitable headroom. A "peak" figure is not the same as continuous output. The entire DC system must also support the resulting current.

How much solar is needed for an induction cooktop?

There is no single number. Solar must replace the watt-hours used by cooking plus all other daily loads under realistic weather conditions. The battery and inverter, rather than the panel alone, supply the cooktop's immediate high power.

Will any pan work on induction?

No. The base must be induction-compatible and magnetic. Cast iron and many stainless-steel pans work; plain aluminium and glass generally do not.

Is induction allowed during a total fire ban?

Rules differ by jurisdiction, fire-ban declaration, location and appliance. Never assume an electric cooker is automatically permitted. Check the current state fire authority and land-manager directions before cooking.

Is gas-free camping cheaper?

Usually not if you need to upgrade batteries, inverter, charging and wiring. It can be convenient and may use surplus solar, but the full electrical system cost matters more than the price of the cooktop.

Should remote travellers remove gas completely?

Only after considering poor-weather charging, equipment failure and trip length. Many travellers keep a compliant backup method even when induction is their everyday choice.

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Battery choices are only one part of the wider sustainability picture, alongside transport, waste, water and site care.

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